Boy.Friend — новые часы Chanel Horlogerie
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пятница, 5 июня 2015 г.
Girl in Vogue: Алисия Викандер - Vogue
Шведская актриса Алисия Викандер стала посланницей французского Дома Louis Vuitton, а мы убедились, что руководство марки не зря остановило свой выбор именно на этой модной и талантливой девушке
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The Royal College of Art Dances into a New Era - Vogue
“It’s a landscape — and a Pina Bausch moment,” said Zowie Broach — too modest to take a bow at an inventive and powerful Royal College of Art show, but the instigator as head of fashion of a new era from London.
The forward and back fashion runway has become a cliché in our time and this majestic attempt to engage the eye and stretch the imagination of the audience was a tour de force.
With a front-row audience stretching from designers like Zandra Rhodes or David Sassoon, who created a nucleus of RCA fashion successes in the Sixties, to more recent graduates such as Erdem Moralioglu, this show was clearly designed as a new dawn of showmanship.
A large area of the college, rarely seen stripped down to its bare floor and white pillars, was the framework for the originality and craftsmanship of 36 MA students.
The models were somehow coached into choreography that had the effect of uniting the spirit of 36 very different designers. The clothes all seemed original: from Mark Glasgow’s relatively traditional menswear, but in sweet-and-sour colours like pink and green, to Une Yea’s white cut-outs of roaming architecture with mesh hats illuminated with electric bulbs.
Another aspect of this creative showmanship was seen in the balance of neutral colours that seemed to encourage architectural design, such as Rebecca Stant’s plays on tailoring and transparency, or menswear designer San Kang’s animalistic splodges of black on white.
At the other end of this spectrum of architecture — say, Jae Hyuk Lim’s white puffer jacket with strategic holes — there were the soft fabrics and colours. I picked out a woolly green coat created by knitwear designer Lucinda Popp.
Flat shoes, often sneakers, worn not as a statement, but in a natural way, added to the sense of streamlined modernity. There were high heels, for example with Fengyi Tan’s sinuous, strongly coloured dresses. But the word that sums up the pace of the show was “dynamic”.
There were also moments of emotion, as Melanie Lewiston’s helmeted, non-sexually defined figures were sometimes hidden behind a white face mask. That was the ending of the first half of the show, where the arrival of mobile tables of snacks put the audience in a merry mood.
The standard was so impressive — which has always been an aspect of the RCA’s work at MA level.
But as rector Dr Paul Thompson said, referring to the presentation offered by Zowie Broach: “Change and new ideas are necessary.”
I began to have fashion fatigue as the thirtieth designer sent the models walking, crossing, running and posing in the space. But I picked up enthusiastically on Vivi Raila’s twenty-first-century floral decoration (done in conjunction with machine embroiderer Alice Timmis). And the organic straw effects of Paula Knorr were exciting and inviting.
The undulating embroidery from Ka Wa Key Chow was unexpected for menswear but the result from the pastel landscape effect was soft.
In all, a big success story at the RCA for moving its presentation forward.
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At graduate shows, the peacock male stretches designers’ wings - Vogue
‘Middle finger up to gender!’ The exclamation printed on a bold men’s outfit told the story of the colourful, crazy, free-wheeling menswear at the London colleges’ graduation shows this season.
Rachel Siggee from Nottingham Trent University made that statement at the Graduate Fashion Week awards show. But she was not alone in her attitude that menswear now has a sense of wild freedom, more recently associated with a woman’s wardrobe.
In fact, the male looks are taking over the runways in style and in numbers. Space-age menswear with a metallic silver finish won the ‘Gold’ award at Graduate Fashion Week for Hannah Wallace from Manchester School of Art.
In all areas from knitwear to textiles, clothes for men are now the fighting force.
At London’s Central Saint Martins BA show, colour, pattern and texture exploded across the runway. Challenging gender stereotypes was the issue, from the first outing of soft, shiny men’s sportswear in sweet pink from Gabriel Castro through to the giant, tent-like garment in shocking pink and pattern from Milligan Beaumont. Equally crazy colours on oversize outfits with wild patterns came from Wataru Tominaga and Angus Lai.
I felt the spirit of the Eighties in many of the giant silhouettes. But the digitalisation of print, laser-cutting and 3D pattern-cutting has changed fashion dramatically in the 30 years since Japanese designers — Yohji Yamamoto, for example — faced those issues.
I was frustrated in all the college runway shows about the lack of technological information — especially since I was a judge at Saint Martins.
The single word ‘knitwear’ or ‘print’ was just not enough to define the workmanship. And I still don’t know how student Han Kim created giant ‘wings’ — nor whether, because of their weight and huge size, the outfits should be seen as artistic sculptures rather than clothes.
The same applied to Susan Yan Nan Fang’s intriguing ‘mobile’ clothes, with threads hung on wires like an Alexander Calder mobile. Or another decorative treatment of super-fine metal mesh in an all-scarlet collection from womenswear designer Jim Chen Hstang-Hu.
I WANT fashion students to stretch their designs — actually or metaphorically — to the limits of their imaginations.
And the fact that menswear is given just the same wild, bold, intense treatment marks a new stretch of fashion wings.
www.gfw.org.uk
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Хозяйка медной горы - Vogue
В Espace Louis Vuitton Paris открылась выставка художницы Элис Андерсон, создающей необычные скульптуры, из предметов, обмотанных медной проволокой
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Дорого-богато - Vogue
20 лучших снимков из Instagram, на которых можно во всех подробностях рассмотреть золотые туфли, перстни с огромными кристаллами и другие эффектные аксессуары из круизной коллекции Gucci
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В поля - Vogue
Éclat de Fleurs — новый аромат французского Дома Lanvin, вдохновленный летними лугами, на которых распустились маргаритки
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Амстердам: гид по городу от Даутцен Крес - Vogue
11 амстердамских адресов, которые стоят вашего внимания по мнению супермодели и «ангела» Victoria's Secret
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