Самые модные мюли, бабуши и шлепанцы этой весны и грядущего лета
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понедельник, 25 апреля 2016 г.
#CNILux Day One: Special K - Vogue
It was left to Founder, Chairperson and Chief Visionary Officer of the Sungjoo Group and Chairperson of MCM, Sung-Joo Kim — affectionately known as Mrs Kim — to remind us of the relevance of this year's Condé Nast International Luxury Conference being based in Seoul.
A stalwart of the luxury community here, and throughout Asia, she knows better than anyone the secret to Korea's success, and brought three of its greatest advocates as endorsement: the Korean hip-hop artist and founder of the AOMG record label, Jay Park; Managing Director of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Seoul, Jiyoon Lee; and Professor at the Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology, Sangmin Bae - each of whom commented on how K-Culture has permeated their respective fields.
Jay Park
"When I was younger, everyone automatically assumed I was Chinese, and when I told them I was Korean they didn't know where it was. People are very interested in Korea - it's hot right now. I just had a tour and 85 per cent of the crowd weren't Korean, but they knew every single word of my songs, all of which were sung in Korean. Last year I wore a T-shirt on TV and after it aired, it sold out straightaway. Clothes I wear - and other artists - can start trends in fashion or music."
Sangmin Bae
"The Koreans have very strong passion — they love to share something good with their friends and that feeds into K-Pop. Korean designers are becoming more fashionable and we are creating our own way. Old-school luxury was built on exclusiveness and it's not exclusive anymore because everyone has a luxury brand, so it's becoming a last alternative. We now try to make the customers feel number one and we want to let the customer define the brand."
Jiyoon Lee
"The city of Seoul itself is a really inspirational place. The Mayor of Seoul is trying to make it a better city, full of all the creative talents of people here. It's about multidisciplinary creativity. It's happening in Seoul and the rest of Korea and is a regeneration of creative energy and ideas. I think that the Millennial generation is defining Korea in a different way. They are really living in the market, and have crazy creativeness."
By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from the second Condé Nast International Conference in Seoul
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#CNILux Day One: Karl’s Secret Weapon - Vogue
Young-Seong told Suzy Menkes on stage at the second annual Condé Nast International Luxury Conference today, referring to how she and Lagerfeld found their professional synergy. "Normally Karl has a wonderful dream and he says, 'Kim what do you think?' And then asks, 'Do you want to make it a dream come true?' He's very open minded and we discuss everything, but he makes the final word."
Young-Seong had the opportunity of bringing Chanel to her hometown of Seoul last year as the brand chose Zaha Hadid's Dongdaemun Plaza (DDP) to present its Cruise collection. "When Karl said, 'Let's go to Korea' I was so honoured, but so stressed, as I had to make everyone understand Korean culture," she explained. "No one really understands what the image is - so I created that. It was intense — I was sick making it, my team were sick making it, and after that everyone hated the Korea collection!!"
Naturally self-deprecating, Young-Seong has a few more mantles than her official title. Advisor, confidante, and — we expect — responsible for keeping the Chanel atelier smiling with her good humour and constant smile, she is responsible for injecting a dose of reality to Lagerfeld's dreamt-up collections.
"When Karl said, 'Let's make a supermarket collection', it was so funny because normally Karl never goes to the supermarket," she laughed. "He doesn't know how much a baguette costs! It was so funny. So I bought camembert and made a tweed, pasta and made a tweed, salad and made a tweed, and I made a frozen carrot and green-bean tweed — it was so funny."
By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from the second Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Seoul
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#CNILux Day One: Why Wu Is Boss - Vogue
Fresh from his recent wedding and launch of his diffusion line, Grey, just last week, Jason Wu is well-versed in fitting a lot into a tight schedule. As Creative Director at his own label, as well as the Artistic Director of German brand Boss, the 33-year-old was described as a "fashion powerhouse" and "role model" by Suzy Menkes at the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference today, who wasted no time in tapping the Taiwan-born, New York-based designer about his work at his adopted brand.
"I've been there for three years now and I feel like I'm able to be freer and can move my girl forward," he told Suzy about his role at the fashion house now. "At the beginning it was important that there was a tie to the original menswear. Now, five seasons in, it's important to evolve. I felt more comfortable, so for this season straight lines became curvy lines and we took the canvassing out of the tailoring and it suddenly felt more feminine."
Femininity is something that the designer is well versed in. For his Jason Wu label, he has dressed some of the most glamorous women in the world — the most famous being First Lady Michelle Obama. Dressing Obama was, he revealed, a dream come true.
"That was a special moment for me, because you don't set out to do that — I set out to be in fashion magazines and all of a sudden there was this hugely historical moment," he said. "I got the request that we needed to do the fitting next week, so I just did one proposal without thinking it was for the First Lady! It was a white one-shoulder gown. When I saw it on TV, I don't know how to describe [that feeling]. It wasn't just dressing someone; it was being a part of history. It was a part of my American dream. My parents moved to America to allow me to be a fashion designer, so that moment was so special."
He credits Obama not only with making his dream come true, but also with setting the sartorial agenda for a new generation of professional women. "Not so long ago women were converging on the workplace, but now women are wearing dresses in Washington and not ill-fitting blazers.
The idea of working in politics and dealing with important issues isn't tied down to what you wear in the workplace and Mrs Obama had a lot to do with that," he said. "What she has to say is very intelligent. She's a strong woman, and she looks great doing it. That's been an important movement." As the go-to designer when his celebrity friends want to glam up, the designer also revealed his philosophical approach to the fashion fanfare. "In some ways we all play dress up," he said. "We have an idea of ourselves and we dress up and that's how the world perceives us, because we judge everything by what we see first. Fashion isn't frivolity - it allows you to be whoever you want to be."
By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from the second CNI Luxury Conference in Seoul
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#CNILux Day One: Business Coach — Stuart Vevers In Conversation With Suzy Menkes - Vogue
In the two-and-a-half years that Stuart Vevers has been at Coach, he has transformed it from a classic accessories brand where women go to buy a trophy purchase, to a fashion label that has women flocking in their droves for its latest ready-to-wear. "When I started, I deliberately didn't limit myself to the heritage of the house as I wanted to trust my instinct as to how it can be relevant to today," the Englishman told Suzy Menkes today at the second Condé Nast International Luxury Conference.
"The heritage is there, but it's in the past and I want to be in the present. It helps me look to the future to see what people care about. Timeless and classic are words that don't appeal to me anymore. I've used them in the past and after the last recession we hung onto them for reassurance. I think brands should be strengthened rather than dictated by the heritage."
Striking the balance between old and new is not the only equilibrium that is important to achieve. So too — for a brand that is turning over almost $5 billion and enjoying global success, especially in Asia — is making sure that Coach has a personal connection to its shoppers. "Ultimately it comes down to making Coach friendly," Vevers told Menkes. "This can come through an experience in a store, having something monogrammed, and keeping the design warm. I think the idea of exclusivity needs some revision. It can just mean excluding. If I imagine myself as a teenager growing up in Doncaster in Yorkshire, the idea of going into a store and being excluded by attitude or price… I think fashion can be friendly!"
Coach, as Vevers said, is now a fashion house with ready-to-wear anchoring the accessories for which the brand has always been famous. But, while he notes that "fashion is about creating a total look, not just about an accessory", he pointed out that his own background in accessories gives him the edge when it comes to translating his inspirations into new creations now.
"My experience means I can connect a brand story with the product and I think this comes from having an accessories background," he said. "I look at Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino and Alessandro Michele at Gucci and I think we all came from accessories backgrounds. We spent many years in the background translating ideas into products."
As for the future, Vevers wants to make sure the brand is a beacon of luxury. "I definitely want Coach to stand at the forefront of the new codes of luxury. We can reference those archetypes of style. It can be a fresh alternative to the conventions of traditional European luxury. I see fewer people wearing formal clothes and less guys wearing ties. I want Coach to have a strong connection to the street. The new codes are being dictated by the new generation. They don't find status in a briefcase or formalwear."
By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Seoul
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Замок Кристиана Диора вскоре откроется после реставрации - Vogue
Поместье Château de La Colle Noire, окруженное цветущими садами, приоткроет завесу парфюмерной тайны
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#CNILux Day One: Samsung’s Fashion Universe - Vogue
For many people, Samsung is synonymous with electronics, but the brand has a healthy fashion division that is the largest industry player in Korea. Surprised? It doesn't stop there.
"A little-known fact is that Samsung started out in the textiles business in the mid-1950s, some 10 years before going into electronics," Seohyun Lee, President and CEO of Samsung C&T Corporation, Fashion Group said today at the second Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Seoul. She also revealed that the company intends to move from Asian markets to concentrate its efforts overseas with its fast-fashion brand 8 Seconds. Lee, born in Seoul, is well-placed to lead the charge. As passionate about nurturing the booming fashion industry in South Korea as she is about promoting its global potential, she is a key campaigner for the talent that is ready for export.
"Koreans make up the largest percentage of students at major design schools around the world - this was the case when I was at school and it's the same today," she said. "Fifteen to 30 per cent of students at Parsons, Central Saint Martins and the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp are Korean, so why aren't there more Korean designers at Fashion Week? Until quite recently we were focused on consuming global trends, whereas now we are becoming more confident of our own style and story." Her enthusiasm stretches to supporting emerging talent through Samsung's Art and Design Institute (where students are mentored by its fashion, electronics and marketing teams and is, as she says, "producing amazing results"), but as well as encouraging people to create, she is realistic about the customer they will eventually be targeting.
"Traditional luxury goods customers used to be baby boomers, but today, they are the Millennials, and that means a shift to a digital generation," she said, citing virtual reality, speedy connections like 5G, and artificial intelligence as areas for serious consideration. "They are more independent, but at the same time they are hyper-connected, which has forced fashion companies to change how they market their goods. Another change is the emergence of Asia as the largest market for luxury goods. The industry is looking east for growth, so I believe we are at an exciting crossroads." So, could Samsung be the next LVMH? "I'm not sure we could be the LVMH of Korea, but the key point is I have a vision of growing Samsung fashion overseas in the next 10 years. However, I want to run business in a modern way - finding out what the customers wants and moving quickly. We will continue to nurture new talent and invest in Korean fashion so that the industry can grow together with us."
By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from the CNI Luxury Conference in Seoul
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Липосакция сразу после кесарева сечения или красота по-американски - Vogue
Стать матерью и получить фигуру лучше, чем до беременности? Бьюти-роды — последнее слово пластической хирургии в США
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Вербное Воскресенье с Данилой Козловским и Ксенией Раппопорт - Vogue
Благотворительный вечер фонда “Б.Э.Л.А. Дети-бабочки” и ювелирного дома Axenoff Jewellery
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#CNILux Day One: The Future of Luxury - Vogue
The only question more important than how and why luxury businesses should embrace technology is when they should embrace it, says Sophie Hackford, Director of Wired Consulting and all-round pioneering "future thinker". The answer? Immediately.
"What I really want to drive home is a quote by US General Omar Bradley: 'We should be navigating by the stars and not the light of every passing ship.' There seems to be a lot of passing ships at the moment," said Hackford this morning, who went on to outline the key technologies on which the luxury industry should set its sights. Bringing digital information to physical forms through smart surfaces; sensors embedded in our clothing; and virtual reality are the key players in the new landscape.
Hackford believes that virtual reality will soon replicate human interaction much more reastically, using avatars to mirror our expressions, feel the texture of surfaces, and even recall memory. The end goal? That we widen our perspective and recognise this development not as something only relevant to the online gaming community, but as a luxury experience that can be a shared across continents. Today's web is made up of pages, but instead we should think about web places, Hackford said.
"Today's kids will be virtual natives. We are moving away from the rectangle screen towards a 3D world," she explained. "In order to have a profound impact on the world, we need to be intuitive." Hackford doesn't want Silicone Valley's tech community to be the only ones to embrace these changes; instead she believes it is designers who will bring creativity to the new "Metaverse" experience.
The benefits of this new technology are abundant for the creative field. Analysing online data, "businesses can be turbo-charged by information" and "make the real world searchable", Hackford explained, meaning designers and retailers can only benefit from connecting with their customer easily and seeing how the competition is doing. "It won't be a tidal wave, it will be a creep - but as it becomes more useful, it will become more normal. We are entering a virtual age."
Hackford advised the audience, "It's important to ask big questions about the coming years — there are enormous technologies that have already left the gate and are doing transformative things in the world. We're not suffering from lack of technology, but a lack of imagination as to what to do with it. Technology has a place in luxury. We are all becoming entangled with machines in ways that we haven't before. So keep your eyes on the stars and not on the lights of each passing ship."
By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from the CNI Luxury Conference in Seoul
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#CNILux Day One: Fashion And The Power of Social Media - Vogue
If there are two people that know the power of social media in the fashion forum, it's Eva Chen and Olivier Rousteing. The King and Queen of Instagram (Chen is Head of Fashion Partnerships and Rousteing, Creative Director of Balmain, is its most ardent fashion-designer advocate), the pair came together on day one of the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Seoul today to debate the impact social media has on the industry.
"Fashion has always been about the future, it's always moved quickly, and yes — it has been accelerated by social media," said Chen. "It's such an interesting time, with enormous opportunity. The velvet ropes have come down in fashion — the future of fashion is democracy and the ability to adapt with the consumer. It's a new way of storytelling. So many luxury brands use the word 'storytelling' and what else is Instagram than storytelling? There's so many ways to do it now through Instagram."
"You're right, it's storytelling," Balmain's Creative Director agreed, explaining his original reason to join the platform. "At the beginning I was the Balmain baby and now Balmain is my baby. It was important back then to use Instagram to invite people to discover who I am. I'm adopted, I came from an orphanage, and I wanted to show people that dreams can come true; to give a positive message and say that if you believe in yourself and you believe in a dream it can happen."
"You can reach so many people through Instagram," Rousteing continued, speaking about his #BalmainArmy hashtag. "Now, after a show I can invite people to understand the Balmain world. If they want the Balmain world they can have it and follow; if they don't like it, they can unfollow."
Accessing people and getting them to buy into the brand is, of course, one of the most important ways to harness the power of social media — indeed, it has been one of the major catalysts for the recent "see-now-buy-now" movement. That designers could monetise the buzz created by social media around a show to sell through immediately to the consumer has financial benefits, but has divided opinion.
"I believe in see-now-buy-now — we have to stay connected and go faster," revealed Rousteing, hinting that releasing capsule collections immediately after the show (as many other brands have chosen to do, as opposed to making the entire collection available) would be the route the brand would take. "We are probably going to head for see-now-buy-now, for sure. But it's important to keep key pieces that you will sell later and also have pieces that are available immediately after the show. It's good to have a mix of price points too.
And I believe that Instagram and couture can work together — you can invite people to discover how you work. With Instagram I can push and explain the details." "A lot of designers are showing the detail through Instagram," added Chen, who believes that Instagram can be used in a positive way to spark excitement about what is about to land on the shop floor. "Designers also use long-form explanations
— which are becoming increasingly popular - that allow them to explain what inspires them. Marc Jacobs, instead of telling the audience who the model was and photographer was, took the time to explain why each model meant something to the campaign, which gave his followers a closer connection."
And connection is what the platform is all about — as Chen's parting words for the conference summed up concisely. "Remember that Instagram is truly a community - and it can be a great ice-breaker."
By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from Seoul
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