Рианна создала идеальную обувь для жизни и спорта — модницам не устоять
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вторник, 14 июня 2016 г.
Valentino resort 2017 - Vogue
Мария Грация Кьюри и Пьерпаоло Пиччоли в новой круизной коллекции «прошлись» по всем собственым хитам: тут и алые платья, и деним, и tie-dye и «косухи», и бабочки, и кружевные наряды в пол
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K-Pop Wins At Central Saint Martins - Vogue
Tears of joy filled the eyes of Soyoung Park as she was announced this year's winner of the top prize among students at Central Saint Martins in London: The L'Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award.
From K-Fashion to UK triumph is quite a stretch for the South Korean student and her knitwear. But although she is original in the dense textures of her clothes, from knits that look like feathers to surface interest on slim skirts or culottes, this fledgling designer is not alone in her talents. The L'Oréal Award runners-up after her are Yuhan Wang for her womenswear and Adnan Jalal Salman for his knitwear.
Also from Korea is Dohan Jung, whose ripped and shredded fabric, with its feathery effects, gives a third dimension to the surface of streamlined outfits and has attracted the attention of Inditex, one of the world's largest fashion retailers. The mighty Spanish company behind fast-fashion brand Zara has selected this designer for its Inditex scholarship, noting the graduate's skills in fashion, design and marketing.
A sense of rage, or, at least, a recognition about the way of the tough world, ran through these Saint Martins offerings. That began with a group of downtrodden "cleaners", with a theme of domestic slavery, sweeping the runway while wearing intensely colourful clothes by Italian student Chiara Tommencioni-Pisapia.
There is a certain irony in students making social statements through their designs when their parents (or their bank loans) fund £17,230 a year in tuition fees if they're from outside the EU and £9,000 if not. But since high-end supermarket Waitrose has opened right beside the Saint Martins campus in Granary Square, I appreciated the irony of Korean student Jaeeun Shin re-cycling the store's plastic carrier bags into glamorous dresses. Shopping carts rolling along under skirts in semi-transparent fabrics created a fashion journey from hooped crinoline to consumer basket.
The "gender neutral" spirit that made such an impression on me when I went to Korean Fashion Week in Seoul was well-expressed at Saint Martins. There were soft, high-waist trousers and square-cut jackets (with throat tattoos and gold teeth as decoration) from menswear student Haya Shin. Another kind of clever cutting came on the menswear designs of Soyeon Chang.
I would describe most of the students of Korean origin as exhibiting an imagination just this side of crazy. It would have been useful to have some technical information, for example, about Korean Jieun Myoung's geometric and sculptural clothing in black, white and pink metallic plastic materials. Was all this digitally designed?
Knowing how smart and advanced Millennials are, I feel that Saint Martins should make more effort to offer on-line profiles of each student, perhaps with a few words of their aims and intentions.
Korean techno giant Samsung is the sponsor of two Fashion Design Fund Awards, which this year were given to Spanish print student Paula Canovas del Vas and Korean menswear designer Su Sang Hwang.
But British fashion colleges have been built on man, rather than machine. Although in the case of Saint Martins, women have held key positions, from the late Professor Louise Wilson to Willie Walters, Programme Director of Fashion and the BA Fashion course. This was her final year as a teacher at the college, which she joined in 1992.
Over the last decade Willie has witnessed the enormous changes in the UK's funding of students via debt, which they are ultimately supposed to pay back, and the influx of foreign students (inevitably with parents who have deep pockets). There are now so many names on the graduate list that it is not possible to have all of them show their work at the (very long) official degree show in front of the press, so many have to display their looks outside in the courtyard.
As director of the fashion programme whose students have included Hussein Chalayan, Craig Green, Christopher Kane, Gareth Pugh, Phoebe Philo of Céline, Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, Stella McCartney and Zac Posen, Willie Walters was cheered to the echo.
And if the show seemed to turn too much to fashion's wild side, it was perhaps intended as a bold statement of pushing boundaries of wearability and imagination to their outer limits.
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Sex, Snakes And Cloisters: Gucci Incites Desire - Vogue
On the age-old stone benches beside Westminster Abbey's cloister lay a snake and a cat — their slithering or fluffy skins worked into tapestry cushions. The same symbols appeared on densely decorated clothes, bags and shoes, in which models for the Gucci Cruise show stepped over paving stones marking ancient tombs.
"I was thinking of dipping into this godly sea of the United Kingdom," said designer Alessandro Michele, looking around at the layers of intrinsically Italian embellishment on the clothes for men and women that he had chosen to put together for this London show.
"There is something really unbelievable - this country is like a box full of treasures, you can't stop," Michele said, "and I genuinely think I could work all my life with this kind of inspiration." This wannabe "English Eccentric", with an enthusiasm for intense decoration, has done a great deal for Gucci - and for fashion.
There is a naïveté about his work that includes references from Victoriana to Punk, but this sexual fashion soup is always served up with exquisite Italian craftsmanship.
Yes, we have seen the Union Jack flag worn like a sweatshirt before (thank you Vivienne Westwood), but not produced as an elegant sweater decorated with a silken headscarf, a sparkling flower jewel, a sporty plaid skirt and a bag fancied up with gilded leaves.
"Haute Punk" with antique trimmings best describes this look, in which everything from sandals dotted with furry bobbles and Art Nouveau birds competed for attention with hats and eyeglasses, more decorative bags, more snakes - more of everything.
While wondering at how a man's denim jacket could have so much going on from metal spikes to woven dogs and leopard print pattern, I remembered what I had learned from Gucci about Michele's concept that too much is never enough.
The company that once just produced shoes, bags and accessories is dividing the offering to be personalised by the purchaser. So the "Dionysus" handbag becomes DIY: You choose the motifs, from butterflies to lizards, bees, dragonflies - and, of course, snakes.
But I also saw in the Cruise 2017 collection that the design can move from elaboration to restraint. Rivulets of frills might flow across the shoulders of a woman's coat, while a man's light blue coat was patterned with pastel flowers, and just one single snake curled up the backbone of a pale coat. Molto elegante!
I tried interviewing Michele, but the English words tumbled out so quickly in his enthusiastic conversation that I cannot be sure if he was saying that this current period of the iPad and digital discovery is like a reincarnation of the Victorian Industrial Revolution, but it sounded like that. Yet what does this have to do with Gucci?
There is no doubt that Michele has reinvigorated the brand and given it a fresh energy. The full-blown hippie de luxe look, with its wild mix of florals on a gypsy skirt seemed refreshing. But there was also a genuine feeling of lavish glamour in a fur coat where the pattern of serpents seemed to be burrowing through the fur.
After a week of Cruise, or "resort", clothes that go on sale in the late autumn, I still have no real understanding of the strengths and boundaries of this category. But Michele is bringing something to Gucci that may turn out to be more precious for fashion than his swathes of decoration, and that is an urge to buy into it. Gucci: The re-birth of desire.
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Райский ювелирный сад Петра Аксенова - Vogue
Коллекция Axenoff Jewellery «Вертоград» на полотнах обоев De Gournay, расписанных вручную
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The Seduction of Nature - Vogue
As an exhibition of Georgia O’Keeffe opens at Tate Modern, Suzy sees sexualised floral motifs on the season’s runways
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Скиап и художники: завтра Дом Schiaparelli запускает онлайн-галерею - Vogue
Сальвадор Дали, Жан Кокто, Сесил Битон, Энди Уорхол и другие — между модой и искусством
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