Vogue: 04/29/16

пятница, 29 апреля 2016 г.

Редкие птицы на циферблатах Patek Philippe - Vogue

От часов из коллекции Rare Handcrafts глаз не оторвать

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Тейлор Свифт на дне рождения Джиджи Хадид - Vogue

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Сундук мечты к юбилею Jimmy Choo - Vogue

К своему двадцатилетию обувная марка выпустила специальную коллекцию Memento и большой питоновый чемодан для ее хранения и транспортировки

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Ограниченная серия умных часов Samsung с золотым напылением - Vogue

500 экземпляров Gear S2 Special Edition уже доступны для предзаказа

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#CNILux Day One: Capturing The Energy Of Asian Youth - Vogue

At last year's first Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Florence, Vogue China editor Angelica Cheung explained the shift in the Chinese consumer's behaviour with such eloquence and aplomb that the hard-luxury CEOs in the audience had challenging food for thought. Telling the crowd about the importance of understanding the emerging "Millennial" market, a year later she has practised what she preached and returned armed with the successful launch of Vogue Me, aimed at the all-important Millennial (the tech-savvy generation born between the early 1980s and early 2000s).

"About a year ago I noticed a sharp shift in the youth culture of China. They never experienced hardship. They are single-child families, with money, education, and attitude," said Cheung of her targeted readership. It's a generation that is particularly influenced by social media, proof of which can be found in the impressive statistics for the new publication — it has reached 500 million people across China (half the population) — through Vogue China's own channels of social media alone. It is, as Cheung said, the result of understanding effective means of communication. "To communicate with the new Millennials, authority is not enough," she said. "We need to be their friend and to understand who they are influenced by."

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Social influence is — as in every 21st-century domain — critical, something welcomed by Wim Pijbes, General Director of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam (a top tourist destination for travelling Chinese tourists). He believes that by operating something on "an open house" model — where visitors are free to take photographs of everything they see — it will bridge the gap between traditional and modern means of consumption. "I have no fear [of social media]," said Pijbes. "I strongly believe in the power of authenticity and the power of the real experience. Real art has the ability to move people, open minds, connect old and new, East and West and, in my view, museums are the gateway."

Meanwhile, Erwan Rambourg — Global Head of Consumer and Retail Research at HSBC and author of The Bling Dynasty — reiterated Cheung's points about the Chinese consumer, identifying the largest demographic of luxury consumers as "diverse, young, and predominantly female". He also agreed with her that in order to attract their custom, brands must first understand how they communicate. "Chinese consumers are younger than their European and American peers. They're used to ordering products differently, communicating differently."

"The travelling Chinese have completely transformed the industry that we're in, but we're still at a stage of massive discovery," he continued. "The Chinese consumer is dominant, responsible for 35 per cent of sales now, to a predicted half of sales in 10 years' time. 10 years ago it was the Japanese who were the dominant consumers. There will be a limited growth with the Japanese and American consumer in the near future, but the luxury market will double in the next 10 years."

By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from the second Condé Nast International Conference in Seoul

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#CNILux Day One: MCM Partners With (RED) In $10 Million Pledge - Vogue

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MCM announced that the brand will partner with charity (RED) — at the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference on April 20th — making a commitment to contribute $10 million to the charity over a 10-year period.

The brand also pledged to establish a new approach to producing materials, such as PVC, by 2017, and make MCM a fully sustainable company by 2020. In addition to its partnership with (RED), the brand also announced MCM's plans to collaborate with London-based designer Christopher Ræburn at the forthcoming London Collections Men in June. "Christopher has won numerous awards as a designer but in some ways his standout achievement; quoting Suzy's words was to "incorporate sustainability at the heart of fashion," said MCM Brand Strategist Jeehae Kim.

"Together, with our internal teams and our business partners, we will focus on creating a sustainable approach to materials and concepts aimed at the millennial global nomad."

By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Seoul

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#CNILux Day One: Ripples Of Responsibility - Vogue

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Nadja Swarovski and Kering's Chief Sustainability Officer and Head of International Institutional Affairs, Marie-Claire Daveu, came together to discuss how brands, including their own, can make a difference when it comes to sustainability in the luxury arena at the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference.

"François-Henri Pinault is completely convinced that sustainability is the key to success," said Daveu of the Kering boss. "When we have a look at the state of the planet, we can see the effects of climate change. So taking it into account in our business is not an option, it's a necessity. At Kering, to help us find solutions to sourcing sustainable materials, we created an action plan four years ago. If you want it to be successful, it's important to know what the impact is and we think it's key to take into account, not only our own corporation, but the entire supply chain."

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Kering plans to do this by adopting long-lasting processes, such as the sourcing and separation of raw materials; creating new fabrics through its innovation lab; and working closely with suppliers to improve the supply chain from start to finish, said Daveu. She revealed that making personal visits to every fashion house in the Kering stable is vital if management is to understand the practicalities of each brand. For Swarovski — who serves as a member of the Swarovski executive board and is Head of Corporate Communications and Design Services — ensuring sustainability is something that has been engrained in the company's heritage — dating back as far as 1895 when her great grandfather, Daniel Swarovski, identified the benefits of a hydropower station. Water is as important to the brand today.

"At Swarovski, water has always been really important to us for manufacturing and so we've taken great care to make sure that that process is green," she told Suzy Menkes. "It's interesting to see these values changing; however, it's difficult to communicate." The brand has therefore created "water school programmes" that run in India, Uganda, Brazil, and China, which aim to educate children about the ecological, economic, social and cultural issues that affect water use globally. "For us it's about consuming better, offering beautiful product and not having a negative impact on society," she concluded.

Wired Consulting Director Sophie Hackford added that while brands are starting to make advances in sustainability, it won't be long before technology is at a stage where it will expose any exploitation in supply chains, be it social or environmental. "With DNA technology, the dirty part of a supply chain will be exposed whether you like it or not, so it's time to clean up the act," she advised. "I would hope that we were brainy enough to find ways to solve that issue in the long-term."

By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from the CNI Luxury Conference in Seoul