Устойчивые каблуки и мягкие сумки
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среда, 16 сентября 2015 г.
Coach: Flower Power - Vogue
Suzy Menkes’ exclusive interview with Stuart Vevers, before his very first catwalk show for the brand
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Московское время - Vogue
Новая коллекция драгоценных часов Московского Ювелирного Завода почти целиком состоит из моделей в духе семидесятых, а значит имеет все шансы понравится модницам
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Новый аромат Guerlain, к юбилею Большого театра - Vogue
240 лет Большого театра и 140й юбилей оперы «Кармен» парфюмерный Дом отметил изданием Carmen Le Bolshoï
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Архитектурно: коллекция Филиппа Старка для Gorenje - Vogue
Известный французский промышленный дизайнер разработал коллекцию бытовой техники, которая под его чутким руководством стала выглядеть как самостоятельный предмет декора
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Osklen: Forest Manifesto - Vogue
As a model wearing a rich, dark red dress, the colour of crushed urucum seeds, walked into position at the Osklen show, a film was running on full screen showing the origin of the inspiration: the indigenous Asháninka people, one of the largest tribes in South America, who live in communities from the rivers of Brazil to the watersheds of the Peruvian Andes.
"It's a manifesto about beauty and aesthetics," said Oskar Metsavaht, the Brazilian designer, environmental activist and United Nations Goodwill Ambassador. He explained that the tribe, as direct descendants of the Incas, had a deeply developed sense of beauty in their culture, as well as of symbolism.
The long-held spirit of Osklen, its connection with nature from mountain ranges to the tropics, and its sense of the tribal blended with modern clothing has never seemed more relevant.
For there is a new spirit in fashion in which the fabric and the inspiration seem not a forced mix — but made that way. And it was good to see it on display for New York Fashion Week.
In this Osklen collection, the occasional serpent or panther as a single pattern on a simple dress was a visual statement about the actuality of forest life, and feathers also played a role. The rest of the story was one of plain shapes, skimming the body; when the colours were neutral the texture was striking.
The same indigo blue and urucum red used as a dye by the tribe gave a richness to simple clothes and accessories. The designer also used salmon skin to create clutch bags.
This ability to interpret nature and make it harmonious with fashion is so rare that Metsavaht himself should be seen as a rare — but hopefully not endangered — species.
Instagram @SuzyMenkesVogue
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Self-Portrait, Giulietta, Hood By Air - Vogue
Self-Portrait: Pretty — With Attitude
A pretty girl, a lithe body inside a column of guipure lace and a set of white furniture piled up higgledy-piggledy as if in a garden shop comprised the fashion set for Self-Portrait.
The story of this company, founded just two years ago, has magic to it. The designer is not a hip young woman dressing in a romantic, dishevelled way — all lightweight fabrics slipping off one shoulder and sporty mini-dresses dense with floral decoration.
Nor is the story of the brand, although based in London, a dreamscape of an England of flowerbeds and roses around the cottage door.
Instead, Han Chong, a Central Saint Martins graduate who grew up in Malaysia, has become a mini-phenomenon in fashion, selling his price-is-right clothes at a speed that surprises his stockists. He is also dressing today's tastemakers, everyone from Kendall Jenner through to Miranda Kerr, Katy Perry and Kristen Stewart — young women who like pretty clothes with a touch of attitude. And that is Han Chong's particular strength.
Giulietta: Taking Courrèges to the Tennis Court
The US Open tennis matches were a big focus for sports lovers this week. But for her Giulietta brand, Sofia Sizzi, a New York-based Italian, created intriguing fashion athletics between futuristic tennis players and 1960s fashion star Andre Courrèges.
"The DNA of Giulietta is femininity with powerful and strong elements," said the designer backstage, surrounded by the horizontal, vertical and diagonal stripes that she had worked into outfits and that stretched across the body.
Jersey, suited to athleticism, was the foundation for the graphic looks, while deep brassiere tops and visors gave a feeling of fashion armour.
Together the effect was as blinding as having each serve end in a smash hit. Separately, the outfits had a cheery femininity that showed how far the world has moved in the half century since the Courrèges years.
Hood by Air: Unravelling Uniforms
Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air seems to have a thing about school uniforms, particularly snipping them up and putting the fashion puzzle back together, as in a shirt with a stiff collar and cut-away shoulders rising from a zippered top; or a pair of trousers so split open they looked like fetish wear.
Wherever the designer took his lessons, the classes seemed to have focused on bondage with black straps holding chiffon together and white bandages encasing the arms.
The show ended with fresh white men's cotton jersey outfits plastered with the "HBA" Hood By Air logo. And then a finale of a married couple of indeterminate gender.
Was it shocking? Not at all. Inventive? Yes, if you count the many ways of deconstructing denim or other fabrics. But hasn't fashion been here before?
Instagram @SuzyMenkesVogue
Twitter @SuzyMenkesVogue
Facebook.com/SuzyMenkes
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Oscar de la Renta весна-лето 2016 - Vogue
Питер Коппинг удивительно удачно инкорпорировал наследие основателя Дома в современные модные реалии
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