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понедельник, 21 сентября 2015 г.

Paul Smith: Vivid Colour for the Real World - Vogue



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"It's nice to have some optimism in this sad world," announced Paul Smith, talking before his lively show about his inspiration of the moment: "La Vie en Couleurs" ("Life in Colours") the title of a retrospective of mid-century photographs by Jacques Henri Lartigue, which recently showed at MEP in Paris.

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Smith also explained that he had returned to silkscreen printing, rather than using digital effects — a general trend that is an interesting move, since British designers were the first to embrace the computerised patterns that have spilled over into the global fashion universe.

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The Paul Smith show was, indeed, silken and colourful with an Indian or African feel to deep orange silk, a marmalade sweater and prints that mixed miniature leopard patterns with coal-black shadows. Add colour — yellow, turquoise or lipstick red - ­even on platform sandals.

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The clothes themselves did not have the same sense of reach as did the vibrant shades. Perhaps wisely, Smith offered up a modern realism: tailored suits with over-the-knee hemlines, trouser suits, summer dresses just skimming the body. Stripes in the colours traditionally associated with uniforms, such as red and blue, added a sporty effect.

Paul Smith's womenswear seems to have found its place in a realist zone — while the inspirational 'life in colour' added a bright piquancy.

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